The Next Pitch

I've heard a lot from friends, climbing heroes, and media outlets about how music can influence athletic performance, but for the last few years I've been opposed to using portable music as a supplement. I thought it introduced an ineffective, artificial means of overcoming adversity. When I push into my aerobic threshold, for example, all I can think about is pain. I've tried watching TV at the gym to distract myself and I always loose track of the Real World or The Biggest Blunders in History right when I need the frivolity the most.

But I'm starting to think that I haven't been using portable media correctly. Maybe it should be seen as something other than a distraction. It's not that I suddenly realized that all those idiots with i-pods must be onto something and I should give music a second chance. Instead, my change of heart stems from a much less cerebral series of events. Mom gave me an mp3 player as a birthday gift (against my wishes) and I began bringing this gift places - most recently to the local crag.

Robert and I had run through six pitches of moderately difficult sport climbing that left me a little worn out, both mentally and physically. I wanted to get back to the car and hang out with my girlfriend. He suggested that we go climb two more pitches.

I agreed to check them out, even though they were at my lead limit and I felt sluggish, disinterested, and a little bullied. When we arrived at the base, I popped in my earphones and picked out a track by Slayer. While Robert flitted about unpacking the rope, nibbling food, and getting the GPS coordinates for the cliff, I racked my quick draws and mouthed the lyrics I'd heard so many times. The intensity of the music helped me focus my thoughts. For me, success and failure on climbs at my limit are nearly always determined by my mental state. The best mental state for me is one of emotional intensity and total commitment. It's a state free from the clutter of unnecessary thought. That's where Slayer put me.

Once I was on belay, I took the headphones out and chalked up - no distractions. I climbed without pause. The overhanging section felt strenuous but unintimidating. A few moves through the crux were tenuous, but it still felt like the easiest pitch I'd led at the grade. My forearms were worked by the time Robert lowered me from the top. You couldn't have guessed it by how enthused I was. All I wanted was to get on the next pitch.