Kooljaman

I've decided to write about the Dampier as a series of places. The Bardi people who call this part of the world home define themselves in terms of country. Often the first question I was asked after being introduced to a new person was not, "What do you do?" But rather, "Where are you from?" My hosts assured me that this was not just an effect of my American accent.

The first place I stopped on the Dampier was a sprawling tourist retreat named Kooljaman. It had been an unsuccessful and financially draining time in Broome and I figured that nothing could be less productive than another week on Cable Beach. So, after checking rental car rates (outrageous!), I booked a 4WD taxi north to arrive mid-day on Tuesday the 2nd of September. Kooljaman didn't look all that promising at first glance. It seemed to be a parking lot for expensive SUVs.



I set up my tent and started trying to book tours with some of the Bardi operators whose signs I'd seen posted at Kooljaman's main office.



I only had to try three different operators before I got through to Annette Sampi, who runs the Sampi family tours with her partner Eddie James. I didn't have very high expectations for my tour as a means of making lasting connections, but there was always a chance. After booking with Annette, I decided to scope out the beaches of Cape Leveque. The tourist brochures rave about them and I can see why.





The next day, I took a tour with Eddie and Annette at Ngamakoon (the Sampi family outstation).